Smokin-It Temperature Contoller Bypass

[Walt]

If I recall, the line from the power light must be cut and an extension must be spliced in.  That was a 16 AWG wire.  Everything else was 14.
Look on page 3 of "How to bypass an analog controller".  I generated a parts list needed ensuring only one trip to the hardware store. Good luck.

 

[paidin]

Jeff - This is my high end wiring diagram for the toggle switch.  Call me if it doesn't make sense.

Hi Rickne,
Your diagram is for a DTDP switch.  I am no electonic expert so I need help figuring out how to wire this for a DTSP switch like some others are talking about.  Would you have time to help explain how to wire it for a DTSP switch?  I think those only have 4 prongs on the back instead of 6 prongs like in your diagram, right?

thanks,
paidin

 

[paidin]

I am worried about weatherproofing the smoker.  Would waterproof switches such as these work?
http://www.amazon.com/Bandc-Rocker-Switch-Light-Waterproof/dp/B00EBR1H1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424221310&sr=8-1&keywords=led+Switch+DPST+waterproof

http://www.amazon.com/54-210W--None-Off-Lighted-Rocker-Waterproof/dp/B008DGO2IY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1424221940&sr=8-3&keywords=led+Switch+DPST+waterproof

also, does it matter that these are rated as DC instead of AC?

thanks,
paidin

 

[paidin]

another question for you guys.  I noticed that the DPDT or the DPST toggle switch is to change it from the stock layout where the thermometer is used or a shorted situation where the two white leads are connected directly to each other.  Can't the same thing be achieved by tapping into both leads and connecting a simple on/off switch that can short the two white leads when the switch is on and return it back to normal when the switch is turned off?  This will allow us to use any old weatherproof switch including this neat switch here: http://www.amazon.com/Illuminated-Automotive-Toggle-Switch-Button/dp/B0060U92FS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07QDRX8CSFA2EHZN8Q7K

Well, that switch is not weatherproof but it has a neat led built in. 

So I figure that if you short the two white wires while they are still attached to the temperature dial, it should still work fine and still allow the machine to revert back to factory settings when the switch is turned off.

what do you guys think?
paidin

 

[tnlyne]

I ordered the following switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIDYQMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It took a while (shipped from hong kong) but it was cheap, waterproof, and AC rated. I don't think you want to use the DC rated switches you were linking to. I haven't installed my setup yet so I can't comment on how well I like this switch. But I have received it (took about 3-4 weeks shipping).

 

[paidin]

Hi guys,

after discussing this with the electricians at my work, we decided the most efficient way to do this is with a 3 way switch or a SPDT (single pole double throw switch).  I have added two illustrations, since I have never opened the SI#4, I am only using my imagination as far as how it is wired.  Please, if you have time, double check these to see if they make sense.  One picture shows it with the switch going to  bypass the thermostat and the other picture shows the switch to set the circuit back to the original factory settings using the thermostat.

Thanks for looking
paidin

 

[Bigjo]

I'm planning on ordering a auber this Friday.  I'm also getting the perminent temp probe.  HFigured if I had back off for probe install, just as well wire in a bypass.  I set up a dpdt toggle 15 amp switch.  See pic.  I believe this should
provide a choice to go beyond normal temp limits.  I'm not planning on anything over 300 degrees.  Then mostly for only finishing off smoked baked potatoes.  I love them. Main reason I want auber is I'm always on the go and not able to watch the I.T.    The auber will keep from over cooking the meat, And

give me better temp control for lower temp foods like jerky.

 

[DivotMaker]

Hey, Bigjo, you're on the right track.  I have taken my bypassed smokers up to 325, with no issues.  To me, the real reason, for the bypass, is to take the stock controller "bottleneck" out of the process.  With the bypass, the Auber directly controls the element, as it should be.  The "middleman" controller can cause issues, so I like it cut out of the equation.

 

[Paul Case Luca]

I agree.

If I am smoking low say 225F ... I leave the switch in the position so the stock controller is in line. Then I set the stock controller to 250 and my auber at 225. In this way the stock controller acts like a "safety" should the auber go haywire.

Only time need bypass is when pushing auber smokes near 250 or above.

With the newly offered built in PID which looks sweet... In time this thread will need sunset  But it may take some time.  ;D

 

[Edward]

Hi guys I've been trying to get my supplies together to do the perm probe & switch bypass together. I have read both bypass threads & still in the dark a little. I purchased a DPST 20 amp toggle switch (on/on) 4 leads on the back because a member stated thats what he was running. The diagram in the thread though shows for a DPDT (on/off/on) switch but there is no need for the off position I read so can someone help this newb out? What switch do I need? I just want the switch on (analog controller) or on (digital controller) back or forth preferably-no need for the center position. I pretty much understand the rest if I can get out the weeds with this switch. Thanks in advance!

 

[tnlyne]

Hi guys I've been trying to get my supplies together to do the perm probe & switch bypass together. I have read both bypass threads & still in the dark a little. I purchased a DPST 20 amp toggle switch (on/on) 4 leads on the back because a member stated thats what he was running. The diagram in the thread though shows for a DPDT (on/off/on) switch but there is no need for the off position I read so can someone help this newb out? What switch do I need? I just want the switch on (analog controller) or on (digital controller) back or forth preferably-no need for the center position. I pretty much understand the rest if I can get out the weeds with this switch. Thanks in advance!

You need a DPDT switch (on/on). I used this one when I did my smoker mods for my heatermeter project:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIDYQMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1ND5AJNAM8UHH

Here's some threads on the DPDT wiring:
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=2940
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=2611
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=1863.msg17742#msg17742

 

[SuperDave]

With the recent problems I had with my Auber, I decided to go from full time bypass to the switched bypass.  There was some trial and error involved but overall, not too difficult.  I haven't tried it with the Auber yet but smoking my Super Bowl wings right now with the switch to the analog controller side.  I'll probably test the Auber side next weekend to see if I need to re-run my auto tune after getting the unit back from Auber repair. I chose the side of the smoker that I did so that I didn't have to extend the power light wire.

 

[Paul Case Luca]

I too like you am a fan of the bypass. Twice I had Auber or probe issues. It's comforting to know when this happened not all was lost. Flip to analog... Start the smoke... No plans ruined... And simply fix it after the party!!!

 

[lukmill82]

This is my first post to the forum.  Just got my model 1 as a Christmas present.  I have a chemical processing background so using the Auber was a must for me and my OCD tendencies.  After reading several posts I decided to install the bypass switch on top of my model 1 with the rocket launcher cover.  It just looks cooler that way.  After wiring it up I plugged the model 1 directly into the wall without using the auber to make sure I wired it properly.  Here is how it is behaving:
1.  Switch and cover in down position.  This should operate as the unit comes from the factory.  In this setting the red light is always on even if I have the stock controller in off.
2.  Cover up and Switch engaged.  This should be bypass with the auber in control.  In this setting the red light goes on and off as I switch the stock controller from off to on.

I think this is backwards of how it should be operating.  I think I have the jumper and the connections to the stock controller on the wrong side of my switch.  If this is the case it is an easy fix, but wanted to check before I open the back up again.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Limey]

Luke, at the end of the day I think that this is a matter of personal preference. Most of us have it wired so that if the rocket cover is in the down position then the stock controller is in control and in order to bypass the controller you have to lift the rocket cover and throw the switch. I have mine set up this way and have also positioned the toggle switch so that if it points towards the controller then the controller is in charge and you have to toggle it away from the controller to bypass the controller. The idea behind all this is that if someone not familiar with the equipment should plug it in then there is, hopefully, an extra level of protection against them plugging in a bypassed unit without an Auber in the circuit.

 

[lukmill82]

Had this completed now for a couple months, but haven't gotten my pictures posted.  I originally had my connections on the bypass switch backwards so I had to open it up again, but I think I'm good now.  Love the lack of temperature swings with the Auber!  Doing my first pork butt this weekend for the 4th.

 

[DivotMaker]

Great you got it figured-out, Luke!

 

[Meatball]

If one were to install a more suitable cord for winter / outdoor use as posted , what gauge / type cord would you suggest for a replacement? 

 

[DivotMaker]

If one were to install a more suitable cord for winter / outdoor use as posted , what gauge / type cord would you suggest for a replacement?

I bought low-temp 12/3 cords from Lowe's.  They're yellow, but I can't remember the brand.  I think they're rated to like -20°, or some crazy temp.  At any rate, they're not too expensive (for a 25'), and stay flexible in the cold.

 

[Meatball]

If one were to install a more suitable cord for winter / outdoor use as posted , what gauge / type cord would you suggest for a replacement?

I bought low-temp 12/3 cords from Lowe's.  They're yellow, but I can't remember the brand.  I think they're rated to like -20°, or some crazy temp.  At any rate, they're not too expensive (for a 25'), and stay flexible in the cold.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!