How to install a permanent Auber temperature probe

Tony, a bottom switch installation is certainly doable and would be very easy....I did not think of that.  It may also help with anyone inadvertently throwing the switch in the wrong direction.  You will most likely need to extend one of the wire leads (the white wire with the black leg to the indicator light...easy enough to do (I did it to give a little room to move).  Installing out the back was a pain in the butt as I mentioned due to the insulation and having to maneuver wires, plus the depth of the switch itself required me to slice the insulation to allow the switch to bed into the insulation.

FWIW, a back installation does not interfere with cover...just the insulation.

P2B
 
Really nice install, Gregor!  Thanks for the fantastic pics, too.  This is very helpful to everyone considering this.  Make sure to do that autotune!
 
Just got done with mine.

The hardware store had everything I needed (and it only took two trips to get it all!):
- 5/16" drill bit
- 7/16" drill bit
- 7/16" rubber grommet
- 5/16" nylon spacer
- longer 6mm screws for mounting the cord hangers
- fender washers for the longer cord hanger screws

I decided to go about 2" below the top, dead center through the vertical support in the back of the smoker.  It should give me a good reading as well as stay out of the way for 99% of what we smoke.  I also decided to bypass the stock controller while I was in there, when I have buddies over who are better at electrical than me (I really don't need to be touching that stuff) we'll put in a toggle switch for bypass or stock controller function.

Auto-tune is running now, we'll see how long this takes.  Fish is thawing, looking like it is going to be a good weekend.

Thanks guys for all the great info on the site.  I spent way longer than I needed to poking around the site, but it sure made the modifications quick and easy once my #2 finally arrived.
 
Tony, I've got another question for Steve via you. LOL!  If everyone on the forum gets convinced that the best place for the probe is the top, why is Steve still mounting the OEM probe in the middle? 
 
I'd guess... because he can.  The stock probe only sticks out an inch or two because it is mounted horizontally, vs the five to 6 inches the Auber controller sticks out perpendicular to the smoker wall.  If it weren't for getting in the way, I'd have mounted lower too.
 
SuperDave said:
Tony, I've got another question for Steve via you. LOL!  If everyone on the forum gets convinced that the best place for the probe is the top, why is Steve still mounting the OEM probe in the middle?

I believe it's a matter of tuning.  It's a different size probe than the Auber, and is calibrated for the stock analog controller.  It reads accurately in its location, so why change it?  I'm sure that as the smokers evolve, over time, and the sensor technology improves, we'll probably see a mod.  Just keep in mind that a production line change at the factory, like that, is very costly, so I'm sure he would want to be sure of the need.  Also, this design goes back way before being involved with Auber, and their insight on where the most stable temp in the box is.
 
While doing a couple test smokes last night, I had the temp probe for my Maverick on a lower rack more forwards towards the center front to back.  The readings while the box was heating up were as much as 5 degrees different with the Auber reading higher, but once stabilized they were exactly the same.  With that I'm done worrying about if I put the probe in the correct location.
 
Josh,
I ran the same experiment last weekend, but with an actual "meat load" of 2 whole chickens.  I have a SI #2, so I put the top chicken on the second rack position from the top and the bottom chicken on the 4th rack position from the top.  My Auber probe is about 2" from the top of the smoker.  I put a Maverick probe on the rack next to the bottom chicken (about halfway between the chicken and the side wall).  I have compared the Auber & Maverick probes and they usually run pretty close (within a degree or two of each other).  I smoked the chickens at 250 degrees and it took about 4 hours before the chickens were done.  What I found was that thoughout the entire smoke, the bottom Maverick probe was reading from 15-20 degrees higher than the Auber probe.  Consequently, the bottom chicken was done before the top was.  I did clip the Maverick probe to the rack with a very small binder clip (which I have done before).  I want to try it again by shoving the probe through a small potato and setting it on the rack with the meat to see if that makes a difference.
 
Honestly I think the temp difference at the bottom near the heat/smoke source vs the top after the hot air has passed over cool meat - is something which can't actually be avoided and your temp probes were probably reporting accurately.  The difference from bottom to top is going to depend on a variety of different variables inside the box, and if you're cooking multiple racks of the same meat you'll either have to deal with variations in doneness or you're going to have to rotate racks during the smoking cycle.  This is why I always stack meat as high as possible, generally very close to where my temp probe is.
 
Totally agree, Josh.  If I do multiple racks, I always put the biggest/thickest on the lower shelves.  Seems to just make sense, and always works. ;)
 
For those that are having a hard time drilling their holes, I used the 1/2" and 7/16" (for different holes) drill bits from Dewalt.  They were the ones of the "Pilot point" series.  No small hole pre-drilling.  Went through like butter.  Bits were even used ones I already had.b  Took less than 5 seconds a hole.

Another suggestion I have is to test the temperature accuracy of the probe before you install it.  I didn't and have discovered it is off some, so I have to remove and calibrate the Auber for the probe.

Chuck
 
ChuckV309 said:
Another suggestion I have is to test the temperature accuracy of the probe before you install it.  I didn't and have discovered it is off some, so I have to remove and calibrate the Auber for the probe.
And how does one calibrate a probe?  :-\
 
As per auber:
Turn unit on and have probes in ice water and let temps stabilize.  If they don't read 32, the do the adjustment/calibration.
1.  Press and hold "set" button till "LCK" is displayed.
2.  Input code "155" with + or - buttons then press "set".
3.  The left window will show the parameter (SC1 = smoker temp probe, SC2= meat probe) and right window will show temperature adjustment (0 to begin with).
4.  If your smoker probe only went to 34 in the ice water, then you would adjust the (0) for SC1 to -2 by using the + or - keys.  If it read 30, then you would adjust to a +2.
5.  Press "set" to change to SC2 and adjust the same way if you meat probe did not read 32.
6.  Press "set" and "out" will be displayed on left and "100" on the right.  Leave it.
7.  Press "set" and "C-F" will be on the left and "F" should be on the right (F= Fahrenheit, and C= Celsius).
8.  Press "set" to return to the base temp probe screen showing temps from both probes.  If they were off, now they should read 32.

To find the full details go to pages 14-16 of the manual download.
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/WSD-1500GPH/WSD-1500GPH_v1.0.pdf

Chuck
 
WOW. Am using the same bits (new) and they. Are barely getting started after about 10 minutes of drilling.  Any suggestions?
 
Lay the drilling surface horizontal.  Take a center punch and hit it with a hammer on your drill spot.  Then pour a small pool of oil in the well made by the center punch. 
 
took me a half hour of drilling.  Then I turned the drill on high and punched through in 10 seconds.

Just go all out and git er done!
 
Going to try laying it flat to see if I can get more pressure on it. Have been using a concrete pillar as a backstop but still have the #2 vertical.
Probably should have mentioned that total time must be approaching 60mins. This is my third attempt - new bits and oil each time and all I get is a shallow hole. Great alloys.  >:(
 
May I butt in?  Try either a cobalt or titanium bit and keep the rpms below 300. Like good Q, low and slow. You don't want to generate a lot of heat as the bit will dull quickly. HSS bits will also work, just go slow.
 
Thanks Sarge. Will try a cobalt bit. Should be able to find one quickly.
20+ mins. No joy. Off for another bit. Just hope the expense of installing the probe is less than 5X the cost of the probe.
 
i kept my #4 standing up and pushed it up against the house to drill into it.  I used water to cool the bit.  I sharpened the bits when it got dull with a drill doctor I had sitting around but never used.

Like I said, I struggled for a half an hour.. or maybe it was an hour and a half, it was a loong time.  Then I just went high speed and punched through.  This was with cheap sears bits.
 
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