3D won't turn on. Where do I start?
- Thread starter 40 caliber
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40 caliber
Member
Received the part yesterday , will keep you posted after I swap it out this weekend!
40 caliber
Member
Dave , i bought the whole PID. as there was a hole in the PID, I didnt' know how to debug it. I assumed i would see if someone knew where to send for rebuild and a quote. with a hole in the front, i assumed it might get cheaper to replace. worse case, i have a back up
40 caliber
Member
Please help.
I took a quick look at the PID and this led to me starting to pull it apart and switch it out. there are basically 3 connection areas with 5 wires. simple enough.
i could not get the middle wires off that i needed to. There are however similar ones right next to it that i dont need to switch. i figured if i screwed them up, no harm.. That one came off easy. you can see it in my hand. The one i need to switch out is tougher. (see pic where i am pointing with screwdriver to similar connection). it appears to have a small nipple to keep it in place. is there somewhere I push that in or do I just give it a good tug? At $189, i figured i would check. it's not coming on it's own very well. it wiggles but the nipple is holding it. I dont know if i push that in with a screwdriver or push at the top to disconnect. the nipple is in the top hole you can see in the center of the connector on pic one.
I also put in the last pic to save time. this is the other one i need to do. looks like just a simple SMALL screwdriver required. but figured i would check while i have you here.
I am going to take a shower. Ill check back soon
thanks in advance
tom
I took a quick look at the PID and this led to me starting to pull it apart and switch it out. there are basically 3 connection areas with 5 wires. simple enough.
i could not get the middle wires off that i needed to. There are however similar ones right next to it that i dont need to switch. i figured if i screwed them up, no harm.. That one came off easy. you can see it in my hand. The one i need to switch out is tougher. (see pic where i am pointing with screwdriver to similar connection). it appears to have a small nipple to keep it in place. is there somewhere I push that in or do I just give it a good tug? At $189, i figured i would check. it's not coming on it's own very well. it wiggles but the nipple is holding it. I dont know if i push that in with a screwdriver or push at the top to disconnect. the nipple is in the top hole you can see in the center of the connector on pic one.
I also put in the last pic to save time. this is the other one i need to do. looks like just a simple SMALL screwdriver required. but figured i would check while i have you here.
I am going to take a shower. Ill check back soon
thanks in advance
tom
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40 caliber
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40 caliber
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OK, i got it all apart using a ball point pen and pushing the nipple (hooray!)
bad news is I got all together and has the same problem. I had checked current and had current to all wires into the PID. (or at least i thought). i need to go buy one as it was my neighbors and double check it. that aside the only thing that I see is one connector is more loose than when i started (the one in the picture). i may have broken the nipple but the connector is on the tab. I would think its still getting a connection but tried to tighten it as well.
I dont think that is it as it's no different than where i started. where do I go now? the back of the smoker says use 15 amp fuses. where is there a fuse? I opened the back and all I see is the relay. Is there a fuse in the relay?
any suggestions will help. I am down in prime smoking season!
and yes, i just texted Steve.
bad news is I got all together and has the same problem. I had checked current and had current to all wires into the PID. (or at least i thought). i need to go buy one as it was my neighbors and double check it. that aside the only thing that I see is one connector is more loose than when i started (the one in the picture). i may have broken the nipple but the connector is on the tab. I would think its still getting a connection but tried to tighten it as well.
I dont think that is it as it's no different than where i started. where do I go now? the back of the smoker says use 15 amp fuses. where is there a fuse? I opened the back and all I see is the relay. Is there a fuse in the relay?
any suggestions will help. I am down in prime smoking season!
and yes, i just texted Steve.
Tom- The reference to the fuse is almost certain to be for a 15 amp circuit. Just a matter of terminology. When you go get your multimeter be sure to get s small set of keepers screwdrivers and maybe a good set of tweezers. These components are small as you know and smaller tools are very useful.
If you have checked and tested everything and it still will not power on give Steve a call. Do you have power to and from the relay?
EDIT: I am now on a computer vice the tiny phone. Much easier to see the photos. Spade connectors can be tough to remove if the tech crimped them during assembly. Tiny tools are the key since you need to not only grab the spade to pull it off but also hold fast the component the spade connects to. If you have the smoker open, check to make sure your ground is tight.
If you have checked and tested everything and it still will not power on give Steve a call. Do you have power to and from the relay?
EDIT: I am now on a computer vice the tiny phone. Much easier to see the photos. Spade connectors can be tough to remove if the tech crimped them during assembly. Tiny tools are the key since you need to not only grab the spade to pull it off but also hold fast the component the spade connects to. If you have the smoker open, check to make sure your ground is tight.
SuperDave
New member
For future reference, sending my unit to Auberins has been a $10 - $12 shipping cost and the diagnosis time has been about $10. Unfortunately, I've had to do this a couple times which has led to my lack of confidence in the Auber as a reliable controller. When I do overnight smokes I still get up numerous times to check it as too many times I've gone out in the middle of the night to a blinking controller. But I do highly recommend sending your unit in for a look from the people that built it.
40 caliber
Member
OK, got the PID on and determined that wasn't the problem. no problem the old one had a hole in it and the probe had stopped working so i am fine with that. Steve called me Sunday a couple hours after that text and walked through it. I discovered a shorted wire from the plug to the heating element. it fell off in my hand as i was looking at the wires. it was attached on first look. I know how to strip and reconnect a wire but want to get some help from someone that can help me find the cause. I don't want to reconnect the wire and short it again if there is a fault somewhere. So next saturday the saga continues.
I must say, i was quite amazed that steve called so quickly and so patiently helped.
I must say, i was quite amazed that steve called so quickly and so patiently helped.
40 caliber
Member
IT IS ALIVE!!!!!
Thanks to all of you , the power of the forums and steve's call last Sunday!
after talking with steve, i checked the relay and checked the wires. as i check the wires, one of them fell off in my hand. i got the connectors i needed today and replaced the wire as well as the PID and she is up and running. I may not have needed to replace the pid but it was in bad shape with a hole in the top and a probe that wasn't working.
anyway after i fixed the wire , i was back in business!
picture attached of the break but the first meal back was a maple smoked chicken breast with carribean jerk seasoning. Yahoo!
I learned a lot. this smoker is pretty simple.
1. check your pid,
2. check the wires for any breaks and burns
3. turn the unit on and see if the relay light is on.
in my case the relay wasn't on but that is because the wire was broken
it's decent trouble shoot to start to figure things .out.
do we have a sticky on what to do here? it feels like it would be helpful if i missed it.
tom
Thanks to all of you , the power of the forums and steve's call last Sunday!
after talking with steve, i checked the relay and checked the wires. as i check the wires, one of them fell off in my hand. i got the connectors i needed today and replaced the wire as well as the PID and she is up and running. I may not have needed to replace the pid but it was in bad shape with a hole in the top and a probe that wasn't working.
anyway after i fixed the wire , i was back in business!
picture attached of the break but the first meal back was a maple smoked chicken breast with carribean jerk seasoning. Yahoo!
I learned a lot. this smoker is pretty simple.
1. check your pid,
2. check the wires for any breaks and burns
3. turn the unit on and see if the relay light is on.
in my case the relay wasn't on but that is because the wire was broken
it's decent trouble shoot to start to figure things .out.
do we have a sticky on what to do here? it feels like it would be helpful if i missed it.
tom
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40 caliber
Member
Thanks for you help David!
Stout
Dinner tonight is Smoked wings! you coming?
Stout
Dinner tonight is Smoked wings! you coming?
It looks as if the burnt out wire is one of the two wires with high temperature covering that connect to the element. If this is the case then I recall that a few other forum members have had the same problem. Might be a good thing to check first and might be good to alert Steve from a Q.C point of view.
Walt
New member
I have had my unit for just under 4 years. On 2 separate occasions in 2 different locations, I have had to replace broken wire connectors. In addition, the fuse in my (independent) auber had to be replaced, once. All easy fixes once identified. I have had the back off on 4 or 5 occasions including when I initially bypassed the analog controller. That's where I go first if its acting up. Glad things worked out for you. I still love the unit.
