Finally did the Bypass Mod for Auber

1stlink

Member
I installed this switch: Red Pilot Lamp DPDT Waterproof Snap in Rocker Switch 16A 250VAC 20A 125VAC 

It's fairly simple/easy once you build up enough courage to cut into the nice shiny Stainless Steel housing with a Dremel tool..  :-\

Thanks to the pioneers here in The Smokin-It forum that have done the R&D to this point. Tons of tips in the Auber Mod section much appreciated  :)

PS I recommend using stranded high temperature wire in this case I used THHN  14 gauge  available at Home Depot in the electrical department.

Switch from eBay Hong Kong: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321298971278
 

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One other note.  Mounting the switch on the left side next to the indicator light eliminates the need to extend the wire going to the SI indicator light.

 
I have found some switches locally but were at a decent price. I still want to look at them and make sure they are dpdt with 6 mounting prongs. Where did you get the female spade connectors with the shrink wrap cover? I purchased most of the items needed for my #1 & #3 switch and bypass. On the #3 I want to move the switch from the back panel to the top by the light and mount the permanent wall sensor. And on the #1 will be doing the bypass, switch and mounting the permanent wall sensor. When you cut the hole with the dremel did you use a slow speed. Also did you drill a pilot hole or use a punch to make a mark so the dremel did not move from the cutting lines? Another question, looks like you drilled your hole for the permanent wall mount sensor from the back rather than going from the inside of the smoker. This makes sense to me, but how did you measure it Ralph?
 
#!: Insulated (not shrink wrapped) connectors from HD.
#2: No pilot hole or punch for dremel just Sharpie mark and use high speed SS cutting wheel which I believe I bought online??
#3: Measuring skill is from 50+ years of experience. You can do the same I'm sure... measure from front and tranfer that info on the back. I was a little too conservative as it could have been a little higher.
#4: FYI, Drilling SS is best accomplished by going at a very low rpm, I mean slow enough that you can count the revolutions with your eye ball... but I guess you are past that stage.
 

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Hey Ralph, here is the switch I purchased it comes with a waterproof cover.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181023632317?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480201326627&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I really could not find one locally, had some just black switches but wanted a colored one. I will look and see if can find the cutting wheel. Thanks for all the info and help. While waiting on the switch I might be able to get some other stuff done.
 
Looks like you're well on your way.  Your switch is only slightly different than the one I used which is a three position switch on off on  as opposed to your switch which is on on
It should work fine without the off position.  My switch has a pilot light and yours may also but the description is a little vague.
Cheers

 
Not sure if it has a light or not? And your right the description is a bit vague, but when was first looking there was a bit more description. Still waiting on the permanent wall mount for the #3. I did notice that the switch and waterproof cover shipped today. Before working on the #1 I want all the parts together, that way only have to mess with the insulation and wiring once. As for the #3 just going to move the switch to the top and install the wall mount. Sounds like a days work.
 
SuperDave said:
Bill, when you ordered the permanent mount for the #3, were you deliberate about getting the old style plug?

Great point!  Bill, if you accidentally ordered the new-style probe (GPH series), you can use it in your #1 with the 1200GPH.  The 1503CPH is a small plug on the probe.  Hopefully Auber will send you the right one!
 
Tony / Dave I ordered the one for the 1503cph part #  WS-SENSOR05 Wall mount sensor for C series WS and WSD controller. Since the controller for the #3 I have is WS-1503CPH. And the one for the new controller WSD-1500GPH is part # WS-SENSOR11. This sensor fits the G series WS or WSD controllers including model WS-1210GPH, WSD-1500GPH, and WSD-1200GPH. When I ordered the PID for the #1, I also had for $2.00 more send me the permanent wall mount sensor. Thanks guys for watching out for me.
 
Hey guys received the Auber sensor for the #3 in the mail and it was the correct one sort of. As has a very sharp point on the end rather than a blunt end. I may grind the point down a bit. Also Tony I know on the #1 to install the sensor just an inch down from the top of the smoker. Would this be the same on the #3 as well or maybe 1 1/2 inches from the top of the smoker. Also going to move the switch from the back of the unit to the top of the #3. Going to place it by the light which will be on the left side if you are standing in front of the smoker. I should have plenty of wire from when Rick did the bypass and added the switch. Will know more when inside.
 
elkins20 said:
Hey guys received the Auber sensor for the #3 in the mail and it was the correct one sort of. As has a very sharp point on the end rather than a blunt end. I may grind the point down a bit. Also Tony I know on the #1 to install the sensor just an inch down from the top of the smoker. Would this be the same on the #3 as well or maybe 1 1/2 inches from the top of the smoker. Also going to move the switch from the back of the unit to the top of the #3. Going to place it by the light which will be on the left side if you are standing in front of the smoker. I should have plenty of wire from when Rick did the bypass and added the switch. Will know more when inside.

Bill - I wouldn't grind on that probe; pretty sure it will change its characteristics, and you may even get into the bulb/capillary sensor inside!  It's pointed, but it's not a big deal.  On the 3, 1 - 1.5" from the top is fine.  It doesn't really matter, you just want it high enough so it doesn't get in the way.  Not near the problem on the 3 as other models, due to depth.
 
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