You could probably mount up top near where I put my DPDT switch. You'll have to remove some insulation but I don't see that being a big deal because the heat up top is not near as high as it was near the bottom. I don't think you'll need a SSR heatsink if you mount it there either. I'm just not sure how you'd mount it without making some holes in the visible region where you really don't want to risk any mistakes. I chose the bottom because it's out of sight and out of mind. Also never have issues with rain/moisture getting in from the bottom.
Building HeaterMeter PID - DIY
- Thread starter tnlyne
- Start date
Trip
New member
Still no sign of the PCB, good ole USPS lost it. Case hasn't been shipped yet, but that is going out in the morning.
I drilled the holes for the switch and probe. Got my cat5 and probe cable run into the box. Started to run my wiring, but I need to go get some ring terminals for the switch. Still debating how to mount the SSR inside as well.
I drilled the holes for the switch and probe. Got my cat5 and probe cable run into the box. Started to run my wiring, but I need to go get some ring terminals for the switch. Still debating how to mount the SSR inside as well.
Trip
New member
Tman, do you mind giving me your PID settings to give me a good start point?
Got all my internal smoker wiring finished. Was going to weld some bolts on the side, but my buddy didn't come through. I got some high heat JB weld and stuck two elevator bolts to the side for the SSR. Given how light the SSR is, it should be fine and is hidden underneath insulation with the steel as a heat sink, so hopefully it will be safe from heat.
Got all my internal smoker wiring finished. Was going to weld some bolts on the side, but my buddy didn't come through. I got some high heat JB weld and stuck two elevator bolts to the side for the SSR. Given how light the SSR is, it should be fine and is hidden underneath insulation with the steel as a heat sink, so hopefully it will be safe from heat.
Trip
New member
Thanks, got this thing working pretty good and figuring out the alarms and stuff. Got email setup and finally figured out my DNS setup for a subdomain. My domain purchaser won't let me DNS a subdomain, had to go through my server host.
Did you ever figure out the timed alarms? I think I had some combustion in my brisket smoke and was wanting to try the ramp up method, may just do foil boats next time.
I am thinking about trying this:
Start the at a 145 set point
Set my probe 0 high alarm at 100.
When it hits that alarm, it send me an email to let me know it hit it, so I can see what time it hit it.
Then I run this in the script for probe 0 high:
#!/bin/sh
# If no parameter, this is a regular alarm
if [ -z "$1" ] ; then
NOW=`date +%s`
# Set target for 45 minutes from now 2700=seconds
WHEN=$((NOW+2700))
TARGET=`date -D "%s" -d $WHEN +"%M %H %d %m"`
echo "$TARGET * /usr/share/linkmeter/alarm-all RING${al_probe}" | crontab -
else
# This is the cron callback
# Don't fire again
crontab -r
# Set Temp to 225 after 45 minutes
lmclient LMST,sp,225
fi
edit, did a quick test and it's not setting it to 225... Need to learn more about programming scripts with cron.
Did you ever figure out the timed alarms? I think I had some combustion in my brisket smoke and was wanting to try the ramp up method, may just do foil boats next time.
I am thinking about trying this:
Start the at a 145 set point
Set my probe 0 high alarm at 100.
When it hits that alarm, it send me an email to let me know it hit it, so I can see what time it hit it.
Then I run this in the script for probe 0 high:
#!/bin/sh
# If no parameter, this is a regular alarm
if [ -z "$1" ] ; then
NOW=`date +%s`
# Set target for 45 minutes from now 2700=seconds
WHEN=$((NOW+2700))
TARGET=`date -D "%s" -d $WHEN +"%M %H %d %m"`
echo "$TARGET * /usr/share/linkmeter/alarm-all RING${al_probe}" | crontab -
else
# This is the cron callback
# Don't fire again
crontab -r
# Set Temp to 225 after 45 minutes
lmclient LMST,sp,225
fi
edit, did a quick test and it's not setting it to 225... Need to learn more about programming scripts with cron.
Just switch your DNS provider to a service like "https://freedns.afraid.org/". You can then use webforwards/subdomains as you wish. You will have to change your nameservers with your domain registrar. For example, afraid dns nameservers are:
NS1.AFRAID.ORG
NS2.AFRAID.ORG
NS3.AFRAID.ORG
NS4.AFRAID.ORG
I haven't played with the crontab yet to do timed setpoints. I'll try to do this sometime in a future and let you know. I'm really busy with work lately so I likely can't get to this anytime soon.
NS1.AFRAID.ORG
NS2.AFRAID.ORG
NS3.AFRAID.ORG
NS4.AFRAID.ORG
I haven't played with the crontab yet to do timed setpoints. I'll try to do this sometime in a future and let you know. I'm really busy with work lately so I likely can't get to this anytime soon.
Tony I was out of action for a a while and missed this whole project. I just noticed this thread this morning and read the whole thing and I have to say I am very impressed.
I already have an Auber and like it very much if not I would be very tempted to get into this HM project. 8)
PS, I chose the same location for my selector switch as no extension required for the indicator lamp
I already have an Auber and like it very much if not I would be very tempted to get into this HM project. 8)
PS, I chose the same location for my selector switch as no extension required for the indicator lamp
Trip
New member
Here is some of the things I tried on my build.
I went with a 2 line display for a more compact box and I wouldn't have to mess with the ribbon cable on the 4 wire. I got someone to print me a "clear" case, wish I would of just went with a black case. Clear isn't very clear and it shows all the imperfections really well.
Here is what my back looks like with all the insulation in, I had to cut a spot for the SSR in the second and final pieces of insulation. The first piece of insulation is still uncut. The side insulation has two slits in it and is folded backgiving two layers of insulation between the SSR and the inner wall.
Here is a pic with the final insulation removed and can see some of the wiring, the SSR is held to the side wall with an elevator bolt JB Welded onto the side wall. I will put a pic of what an elevator bolt is below.
Just a pic to see where the probe is 1" below the top on mine.
I managed to get all of my wiring out of the original cord hole by cutting the cap to allow the Cat5 cable and temp probe to fit as well, so I still only have that one hole in the bottom.
Here is the stickers I made for my switch.
I went with a 2 line display for a more compact box and I wouldn't have to mess with the ribbon cable on the 4 wire. I got someone to print me a "clear" case, wish I would of just went with a black case. Clear isn't very clear and it shows all the imperfections really well.
Here is what my back looks like with all the insulation in, I had to cut a spot for the SSR in the second and final pieces of insulation. The first piece of insulation is still uncut. The side insulation has two slits in it and is folded backgiving two layers of insulation between the SSR and the inner wall.
Here is a pic with the final insulation removed and can see some of the wiring, the SSR is held to the side wall with an elevator bolt JB Welded onto the side wall. I will put a pic of what an elevator bolt is below.
Just a pic to see where the probe is 1" below the top on mine.
I managed to get all of my wiring out of the original cord hole by cutting the cap to allow the Cat5 cable and temp probe to fit as well, so I still only have that one hole in the bottom.
Here is the stickers I made for my switch.
Trip
New member
I cut them myself with my vinyl cutter, I have a really small sticker business I started from my motorcycle obsession. I really wanted one of those map sticker sets that you see on RVs where you apply a state sticker for each state you visit in the USA, but a lot smaller so it could fit on the back of my helmet. No one would make it for me, so I bought my own cutter and people started asking me for it for themselves.
I don't mind sending you a heatermeter sticker and some of these letters if you want a set for the help you provided in this thread. Send me a PM. The heatermeter logo is just something I made up though, it's not an official logo, I was bored.
I don't mind sending you a heatermeter sticker and some of these letters if you want a set for the help you provided in this thread. Send me a PM. The heatermeter logo is just something I made up though, it's not an official logo, I was bored.
Wanted to post an update to the readers today. I've been seeing issues with what looks like probe noise when using my heatermeter. It caused the temperatures read by the probes to jump around significantly. I found the root cause of the problem to be my outside GFCI electrical outlet causing a ground loop with the HM. Bryan Mayland is giving me a software fix to handle this situation and he's putting it into HM software for everyone else to enjoy. Read about it on the HM forum thread here (page 2):
http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?59358-Noisy-Probes-Need-Better-Power-Supply
This might be something for Auber users to also consider. GFCI outlets I believe are pretty common for outdoor outlets.
http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?59358-Noisy-Probes-Need-Better-Power-Supply
This might be something for Auber users to also consider. GFCI outlets I believe are pretty common for outdoor outlets.
