How to Bypass the Analog Controller

DivotMaker

New member
These instructions are for bypassing the stock controller, but does not include a switch.  This bypass uses blade connections on a short "splicing bridge" wire, so it can be easily reversed, should you choose to do so.  Wear latex or nitrile gloves - the insulation is very itchy!  This procedure only takes 10-15 minutes.

I started with a 2" length of #12 wire, and 2 blade connectors.  These were crimped in place, completing the splicer.  14-guage wire will also be fine for the bridge.

Next, remove the back of the smoker.  There are 3 layers of insulation, so you'll remove the first layer only.  Notice, in the photo, that all the wires are beneath the first (outer) layer of insulation.  Make sure they are all in this layer during reassembly!

I removed the middle layer, for photo purposes, so you can see the controller better.  It is not necessary to remove this layer; just unplug the two wires from the controller.

Simply connect the two wires from the controller together, using your splicing bridge.  Then, use heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to cover the splice.  (The piece of tubing I had was a little large, but it was all I had on hand).  It doesn't have to be water-tight, just covered.  To test your bypass, plug the smoker in directly.  The light on top should light, and the element should start to heat.  If it doesn't, something is wrong.

Once you're sure it works, keep the splice up high, and replace the outer layer of insulation.  Replace the back panel.

You have now bypassed your controller, so the Auber will be in complete control of your element! 

 

Attachments

  • 2014-06-29 10.07.57.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.07.57.jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 1,072
  • 2014-06-29 10.12.18.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.12.18.jpg
    171.6 KB · Views: 967
  • 2014-06-29 10.13.28.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.13.28.jpg
    156.7 KB · Views: 995
  • 2014-06-29 10.13.56.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.13.56.jpg
    193 KB · Views: 1,260
  • 2014-06-29 10.15.48.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.15.48.jpg
    181 KB · Views: 1,301
  • 2014-06-29 10.16.33.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.16.33.jpg
    137.7 KB · Views: 1,249
  • 2014-06-29 10.17.24.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.17.24.jpg
    198.8 KB · Views: 1,299
  • 2014-06-29 10.21.39.jpg
    2014-06-29 10.21.39.jpg
    157.7 KB · Views: 1,288
Thanks Gary!  It's crazy easy - nothing to be scared of.  I haven't tried the switch method, like Steve (PolishQ), but wouldn't think it's much harder.  This is an easy solution for anyone with an Auber.
 
DM
Where did your purchase the connectors?  i tried HD and they only had the females not the males.
 
Polish Q said:
Nice effort into great instructions.  8)

Better than my rambling... And I tend to leave out some details too.  :-\

Thanks Steve!  I learned it from you - just added a few more pics! ;D
 
es1025 said:
DM
Where did your purchase the connectors?  i tried HD and they only had the females not the males.

I bought those at Lowe's.  The box includes male/female connectors.
 
DM
I have successfully bypassed the controller.  Actually went to Lowe's that did not have the connectors went back to HD and found one package of males connectors behind all the females connectors.

Currently running another auto tune.  The bypass was very easy. Thank you for the detailed instructions.
 
One package of males behind a row of females?  How ironic is that?? lol! ;D  Glad you found the poor little guys and got it done!
 
Hey Ed, I just did mine today also. My permanent probe came in the mail so thought I would do both while I had it open. One thing I would like to add, along with gloves, wear long sleeves! Very itchy stuff. I ran a test to make sure it was working correctly and will do another autotune this weekend when I cook. Thanks for the detailed posts and pics, made it a lot easier.
 
Tony, is there a way to calibrate the Auber and the Maverick? They were reading way different. Auber was reading 270 and holding pretty steady considering it was empty and Maverick was showing 315.
 
Mike, if you're attempting an autotune with an empty smoker, it won't work.  Probe placement, between the Auber and Maverick could also be the problem.  When I've tried to run both, a put the probes exactly side-by-side, so they're getting the same dose of heat.  I've never had them read more than a degree or two different. 

That being said, I would trust the Auber probe and reading over the Maverick.  The probe is better quality, and the Auber is a more "precision" instrument.
 
I wasn't doing an autotune, just wanted to get it up to temp to make sure I did everything right. The Maverick probe I just dropped in the hole so probable was a few inches from the permanent one. Still seems like when the Auber had the temp running steady at 270 it should have been close on the Maverick. I am waiting to do the autotune when I cook this weekend so will try it again then and see how it acts. I agree the Auber probes seem more reliable.
 
Ok, Mike.  Just an "ops" check.  Just like for seasoning, I always recommend against any kind of temp readings with a truly empty box - they fluctuate incredibly.  I bet if you put the probes close to each other during the autotue, with meat/foil/water pan in place, you'll see very different results.  I'll be curious to see how that goes!
 
I will post the results of that. I was surprised each unit was staying really steady just off from each other. Seems like the Maverick was about 8 degrees off on previous cooks, not a huge thing but nice to know. I have a 10 lb pork loin in the fridge and gonna try making some baked beans.
 
Found it Tony, Lol. Now where is that picture of the placement of the permanent probe?  ;-)
 
Back
Top