How to install a permanent Auber temperature probe

[DivotMaker]

So, who owns the record for most drill bits required to install their permanent temp probe?  I broke 4 small bits and went through another 4 or 5 getting a hole punched through the box and the back panel.  The most definitive lesson to date with the new smoker is that I never want to drill another hole in this thing again!!!! 

BTW, on my model 4, the plug that goes to the Auber required a 7/16" hole to get through the back panel.

Hehe...  Yeah, drilling stainless is not for the timid!  The key is a center-punched spot to start the drill bit, a new bit, and plenty of machine oil - and lots of pressure!  Can't try to "baby" a bit through that stuff!

[SuperDave]

FYI,
I made my own spacer out of a piece of composite decking I had in the garage.  I'll let you know how it performs. 

[DivotMaker]

The homemade spacer should be fine, Dave - great improvisation!  It's mostly nylon/plastic, so should be OK I would think.

[Plan2build]

I installed my permanent probe today   Drilling the stainless was not difficult, and if you take your time and are patient you can get through it easily.  I used a punch to mark the hole position and then used a small pilot bit to drill through.  I used no oil or special bits!!!  It is not necessary in my opinion.  It is very important to keep the bit cool, so I drilled for 5-10 seconds, stopped and dipped the bit in a cup of cool water, then continued.  I used my basic Milwaukee bits in my battery powered drill.  The holes were very easy but, again, take your time and don't rush.  The deburring was done with a step bit from each side, drilling just enough to knock the rough edge down.

I took Tony's advice and measured down about an inch from the top...this put me at a spot weld on the center brace (see photos).  So I went even higher, about 3/4 of an inch from the ceiling of the inside chamber.  This allowed me to clear the spot weld and gave enough clearance to be able to wipe the probe after use.

I drilled out the bottom and added a grommet, again through the recommendations of those before me!!

My bypass switch is a simple DPDT that I mounted on the back panel....if I were to do it again, I would do a top mount as it would be a heckuva lot easier to re-install the insulation. But I already drilled the hole, so I stuck with the plan.  I did not get shots of the bypass wiring, but it is as others have posted.  I did cable tie the leads together along their length to keep it clean and to help when putting the insulation back in.  My bypass wiring was 14 Stranded THHN.

Next step is to get my auber autotuned, get the smoker cured, and then start smoking some meat!!!  I will update as I move along!!  Thanks to all on these forums for the help for this newb.....

P2B

[TmanEater]

Thanks for the pics Gregor! I'll be installing a permanent probe in my smoker soon. Do you think installing the bypass switch on the bottom of the smoker would be doable? I'm thinking that would be a better location because it's out of the weather, don't interfere with the cover, etc... I'm not sure I've heard of anyone trying to do it on the bottom though...

[Plan2build]

Tony, a bottom switch installation is certainly doable and would be very easy....I did not think of that.  It may also help with anyone inadvertently throwing the switch in the wrong direction.  You will most likely need to extend one of the wire leads (the white wire with the black leg to the indicator light...easy enough to do (I did it to give a little room to move).  Installing out the back was a pain in the butt as I mentioned due to the insulation and having to maneuver wires, plus the depth of the switch itself required me to slice the insulation to allow the switch to bed into the insulation.

FWIW, a back installation does not interfere with cover...just the insulation.

P2B

[DivotMaker]

Really nice install, Gregor!  Thanks for the fantastic pics, too.  This is very helpful to everyone considering this.  Make sure to do that autotune!

[jbauch357]

Just got done with mine.

The hardware store had everything I needed (and it only took two trips to get it all!):
- 5/16" drill bit
- 7/16" drill bit
- 7/16" rubber grommet
- 5/16" nylon spacer
- longer 6mm screws for mounting the cord hangers
- fender washers for the longer cord hanger screws

I decided to go about 2" below the top, dead center through the vertical support in the back of the smoker.  It should give me a good reading as well as stay out of the way for 99% of what we smoke.  I also decided to bypass the stock controller while I was in there, when I have buddies over who are better at electrical than me (I really don't need to be touching that stuff) we'll put in a toggle switch for bypass or stock controller function.

Auto-tune is running now, we'll see how long this takes.  Fish is thawing, looking like it is going to be a good weekend.

Thanks guys for all the great info on the site.  I spent way longer than I needed to poking around the site, but it sure made the modifications quick and easy once my #2 finally arrived.

[SuperDave]

Tony, I've got another question for Steve via you. LOL!  If everyone on the forum gets convinced that the best place for the probe is the top, why is Steve still mounting the OEM probe in the middle? 

[jbauch357]

I'd guess... because he can.  The stock probe only sticks out an inch or two because it is mounted horizontally, vs the five to 6 inches the Auber controller sticks out perpendicular to the smoker wall.  If it weren't for getting in the way, I'd have mounted lower too.

[DivotMaker]

Tony, I've got another question for Steve via you. LOL!  If everyone on the forum gets convinced that the best place for the probe is the top, why is Steve still mounting the OEM probe in the middle?

I believe it's a matter of tuning.  It's a different size probe than the Auber, and is calibrated for the stock analog controller.  It reads accurately in its location, so why change it?  I'm sure that as the smokers evolve, over time, and the sensor technology improves, we'll probably see a mod.  Just keep in mind that a production line change at the factory, like that, is very costly, so I'm sure he would want to be sure of the need.  Also, this design goes back way before being involved with Auber, and their insight on where the most stable temp in the box is.

[jbauch357]

While doing a couple test smokes last night, I had the temp probe for my Maverick on a lower rack more forwards towards the center front to back.  The readings while the box was heating up were as much as 5 degrees different with the Auber reading higher, but once stabilized they were exactly the same.  With that I'm done worrying about if I put the probe in the correct location.

[CUTiger80]

Josh,
I ran the same experiment last weekend, but with an actual "meat load" of 2 whole chickens.  I have a SI #2, so I put the top chicken on the second rack position from the top and the bottom chicken on the 4th rack position from the top.  My Auber probe is about 2" from the top of the smoker.  I put a Maverick probe on the rack next to the bottom chicken (about halfway between the chicken and the side wall).  I have compared the Auber & Maverick probes and they usually run pretty close (within a degree or two of each other).  I smoked the chickens at 250 degrees and it took about 4 hours before the chickens were done.  What I found was that thoughout the entire smoke, the bottom Maverick probe was reading from 15-20 degrees higher than the Auber probe.  Consequently, the bottom chicken was done before the top was.  I did clip the Maverick probe to the rack with a very small binder clip (which I have done before).  I want to try it again by shoving the probe through a small potato and setting it on the rack with the meat to see if that makes a difference.

[jbauch357]

Honestly I think the temp difference at the bottom near the heat/smoke source vs the top after the hot air has passed over cool meat - is something which can't actually be avoided and your temp probes were probably reporting accurately.  The difference from bottom to top is going to depend on a variety of different variables inside the box, and if you're cooking multiple racks of the same meat you'll either have to deal with variations in doneness or you're going to have to rotate racks during the smoking cycle.  This is why I always stack meat as high as possible, generally very close to where my temp probe is.

[DivotMaker]

Totally agree, Josh.  If I do multiple racks, I always put the biggest/thickest on the lower shelves.  Seems to just make sense, and always works.