Smokin-It User Forum!
Auber PID Controllers => Auber Instructions => Topic started by: Three Sons BBQ on December 31, 2013, 04:16:10 PM
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Should you have a separate controller (e.g. Auber PID controller, etc) and wish to bypass the internal control, the modification is simple.
See the attached photo - it's worth a thousand words. Basically open the back of the unit, remove one layer of insulation (very itchy insulation), remove the two female quick disconnects, insert male-male jumper of your liking, wrap with electrical tape, and put everything back together again.
CAUTION: only do this if you chose to do so. Suspect take care to always use with your Auber or you may well likely burn up your unit. Also take care with reassembly to ensure high temp wire remains at the bottom and that your new jumper is at the very top (ever feel the bottom of your SI unit, it's quite hot and that high temp insulation wire is there for a reason). Lastly I don't know if I'd operate my SI above 275 F for any extended period of time.
Steve
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And here's the result...
275 F with ease. No adverse effects.
Steve
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Nice job, Steve. Thanks!
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Steve,
I bypassed my #3 controller today. Did the same thing with a Siamese prong connector attaching the white/white-black wires. Then attached the Siamese to the outward-facing spade on the controller. No wire on the other spade now. I also swapped out the 9ft power cord on the smoker to the Auber and vise versa. All lights on, no fuses blown. Re-programmed initial Auber CO-1 to 250F for 3.7h, for Happy New Year initial seasoning.
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Good idea on the power cord, Bob! Let us know how it goes tomorrow!!
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Few things...
Good idea on swapping power cords!
I was going to shorten the SI cord and just reterminate. Temporarily I have about 8' of cord tie wrapped on the cart.
After looking at a few photos I realize I have a few cords hanging near the back-bottom of the smoker. That area gets pretty warm. So I was then thinking to but a longer cord.
How hard was it to swap the power cords? Did you need to solder anything?
Lastly, I'm thinking its good I have three young sons, am home safe on New Years Eve watching them, and also able to learn a bit on this forum on one of two hobbies I have: barbecue and football ( go Duke ).
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Hey Steve, you're not the only one home on New Year's Eve! This is a great night to stay home and watch the celebrations on TV - and catch-up on the smokin' info! lol. Happy New Year!
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Enjoying my time at home too. 2 of my kids went out... one home with me and the wife. Its movie night.
Been thinking of how to rearrange power cords. Not sure if I'm bold enought to swap them. I'm not that hany.
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Swapping cords really isn't that hard but make sure to properly ground the SI so as to have a good path for faults if they should occur. Routing the power through the Auber then to the SI is fine, but make sure to add a ground to give that extra protection.
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Well you all made me do it... ;D I decided to replace the cords with more winter friendly cords that don't get so stiff and while I had the panel open and was getting itchy anyway I also bypassed the analog thermostat. And since I had everything out I also replaced the Auber PID cord with a longer more flexible one (this was a bit harder as soldering was involved and not something I do very often.)
Generally I'm not one to do mods on something I just bought for fear of breaking something especially the Auber PID, so use your own judgment if this is for you or not and willing to take the associated risks. Figured I should add a disclaimer... ;)
Here are some pics of my process...
Bypassing
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Smoker Cord Replacement
I'd suggest if you have Auber PID to ensure your cord end fits, mine almost didn't due to fuse on the back as seen in last pic.
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Auber Pid Cord Replacement
1st pic - my original cord was loose since zip tie that holds it slipped as you see
2nd pic - new cord all soldered in
3td pic - Don't for get to make sure ground is attached to screw when putting back together
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Nice job, guys! Great pictures and info. This should help anyone wanting to do the same!
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Great.
So that answered my question!
Soldering required for the Auber.
I'm going to leave well enough alone for now... Once it gets a bit warmer in the spring to work in the garage I will also modify the Auber and the SI so the cords are perfect length.
Ps go Wisconsin.
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Looks great guys, I ordered my Auber the day after Christmas so it should be showing up any day now. I do like the idea of shortening the cord as well as adding a more winter friendly power cord that's more flexible.
I will be using this as a guide when I make the change.
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I'm so glad I changed the cords. I did a test with the new cord and old cord laying outside for a an hour. Black one I could wave around like a stick. New yellow one remained nice and flexible. Granted changing the Aubers cord is a bit more work due to the soldering involved, but it was worth it for me.
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I'm so glad I changed the cords. I did a test with the new cord and old cord laying outside for a an hour. Black one I could wave around like a stick. New yellow one remained nice and flexible. Granted changing the Aubers cord is a bit more work due to the soldering involved, but it was worth it for me.
Yeah Wik, I don't think the stock cord is "Arctic-Certified!" LOL!! You guys in the Great White North definitely need stuff that's "freeze-proof!"
My wife's from Minnesota, so I know what you're going through! ;)
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Those alternative cords are more likely to have higher levels of silicone in them instead of PVC, thus keeping them more flexible. But they might not have the overall resistance of wear over time. Just me 2 cents. But the should be fine.
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Your probably right as even the outer shell is thinner than similar ones I had bought in the past. However I'm thinking the original would have cracked over time if I tried to move or bend it when below zero.
One thing I should add is make sure you use at least 14 gauge cord as 16 is too light and would likely overheat. My original cord was 14 gauge so that is what I replaced it with.
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great pictures and great idea. I think I will tackle this project... but not until summer.
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I am planning to switch out the power cords this weekend if all goes well.
Where did you pick up the low temp cords? I saw some on amazon. I was going to go down to my local HD and Lowes and see what they have.
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Low-Temp-Extension-100-Feet/dp/B00004SQFB/ref=sr_1_20?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1388700180&sr=1-20 (http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Low-Temp-Extension-100-Feet/dp/B00004SQFB/ref=sr_1_20?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1388700180&sr=1-20)
I was planning to get 14/3 as this was what was is on the SI and the Auber so I too figured it would be a safe replacement.
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I picked mine up at Menards but I'm sure any that advertise 40-50+ below will do. Looks like the amazon one should work. I just used a 25ft one and cut what I wanted.
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Ok, the cords have been purchased. I thought I had all the spade connectors I needed but I just rechecked my stash and I only have female ends and large spades. I'll just run up and grab some tomorrow after I pull the back off.
Question:
I am planning on changing the SI power cord to about a 6 footer for flexibility. I was also contemplating changing the power cord in the Auber to a 6 inch or 1 footer. That way it's a little easier to unplug the Auber and keep it inside without all the extra cord when not in use. I could then plug the Auber into a 15 ft 14/3 cold weather extension cord and keep that wound up on the back of the SI cord hook.
Thoughts?
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Seems ok. I guess we are all in personal preference mode at this point.
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Sounds like a good plan to me, Charlie! Yep, everyone will have a personal preference. No "right or wrong," just individual solutions to a challenge!
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Of course. I just happy to get feedback. I had not even thought to change the power cord to a low temp cord until it was suggested here.
Thanks for the suggestion. I am excited to make a great smoker even better. For me :)
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Mission Completed and then some....
First and foremost... Thanks to Polish Q & Wik for this thread as well as Johnny and the reset of the men that paved the way to the Auber mod. It really made a task that could have made me very nervous (screwin up $700 in equipment) a very simple task. I did take Pics to add on to the thread, but the pics they put up really made my job a lot easier.
I had a busy Saturday.
I had always planned to bypass the controller when I purchased my Auber because it really does make for a more precise temperature control. So this starts the first part of the post. Bypassing the Auber. It was certainly easy enough. I think it took me more time to unscrew the back and take pictures than the actual work. As others have said, its simple if you just have a jumper wire (14 awg. I used the white wire from the plug since I was swapping that out) with two male spade connectors on it to bypass the SI temperature controller. Thanks for the advice on the insulation. I put on some rubber gloves and that seemed to help.
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Next stop, changing out the power cord in the SI #3 and the Auber. Thanks for the great idea here. It is very easy, and definitely worth the effort. It was 20 degrees here and the new cord performed well.
The Smokin It change was really easy. Its just 3 wires. I clipped the ground wire and put a female spade on it and a male on the new cold weather power cord.
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Bless my soul. Smoker porn! Love the pictures!!
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Next the Auber coldweather/short cord. I primarily did this because I plan to keep the Auber inside and did not want to have a 15 ft cord attached to it all the time so I shortened it to about 8-12 inches.
As others have said, this is a bit more tricky, because soldering is involved, but its really not that difficult. You can do it!
1. Pop the plastic covers off of the Auber and then unscrew the 4 screws holding the back of the unit together.
2. Follow the black, white, and green cables from the power cord to the terminals inside the auber. Take a picture or refer back to this so you know where the new ones will be reconnected.
3. Remove the existing cables from the terminals with your soldering iron. Just touch it to the wire. It will heat the solder and you will see it change to a bright silver. Tug lightly on the wire until it has been disconnected. The wires to get hot when you hold the soldering iron to them, so you may want to use a pair of needle nose pliers to handle the wire it gets too hot to handle. Do this for each of the 3 wires.
4. Clip and strip the new power cable to the desired length. I made it short, but YMMV.
5. Prep the new wire with a little bit of solder before connecting it to the post where the old wire was removed. This makes re-connecting the wire a little easier and ensures you have good connectivity. Do this to the terminal as well. By adding a little solder to the terminal, it will make connecting the wire easier and ensure good connectivity. Now hold the wire up to the terminal just as you did when you removed the wire and you will see the solder start to melt together between the wire and the terminal when you hold the soldering Iron up to it. Try to keep the time you are holding the heat to the wire/terminal as short as possible because you do not want to damage the terminal or draw too much solder up the cable.
6. I put zip ties and hot glued my new power cable into the grommet just to make sure it was very secure.
7. Terminate the new power cables. I used some plug ends I found at lowes which I like. They have different colors. I like Orange :) The inside of the plug will tell you which color wire conects to which terminal in the plug.
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When you re-assemble the box, make sure to reconnect the small grounding wire to the screw when attaching the back to the Auber. I have a pic in here as a reminder.
I also attached a couple of the completed project. The cables seems to be about the right length for me. This is how I plan to store my #3 with the cord wrapped around the cord hook in the back as well as the extra 15 FT extension cord. That is one other important note. I ended up making all of the cords with the 1 25 FT cold weather extension cord. You can see the one I purchased in the pics. I really like it and I am glad I made the switch.
Thanks again go to Steve, Chad, Johnny, Rick, Tony and all of you for the help / suggestions.
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Charlie,
Wonderful job. I am sure all will benefit from your hard work and great pictures. Thanks for sharing,
Dave
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Charlie:
You're done! Awesome.
Curious why the aluminum foil is left hanging out the front? Just wondering the reason and if it is some tip I should follow....
Steve
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Curious why the aluminum foil is left hanging out the front?
Thanks Steve and Sarge!
That is my fully patented DripStop-o-Matic! ;D
I actually got tired of dripping juices (cooked or raw) on the deck. The dogs like it, but it stains, so I do not. It does not catch them all, but if I pull the racks out a little to check the cook, it is enough that it catches some of the drippings. I usually flip up the end a little to get it to extend out a little more. I have also been taking a little outdoor table and sitting it in front of the smoker and placing a disposable full size hotel pan under the racks when I am done so I have a work table.
I have not figured out exactly how I will do it yet, but I plan to put in a sliding shelf under the front of the smoker that will extend out like a drawer would. This create a place for me to work as well as catch those pesky drippings. I like the side tables on the cart, but I would prefer one right in front under the drip pan attached to the smoker so I could extend it out and slide it back underneath when not in use. I there is not really a place to attach drawer slides to the side of the cart without attaching another piece of material to the stainless steel sides of the cart.
I really like the stainless steel cart from Smokin-it, but the sides tables are not terribly sturdy. I am always afraid I am going to knock into it and collapse a side table by accident.
Ill see what I can come up with over the next couple weeks. Idea's and suggestions welcome.
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Really nice job, and post, Charlie! Thanks!
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I have heard a lot about the side tables not being sturdy.
I think the are okay, but if bumped so they aren't latched, then you got a problem indeed.
That said I overcame this by slipping custom made wood clips that a shaped like a letter C that wedge in nicely to prevent the side tables from moving, and thus keeping them in place for the metal to do the work of holding the weight.
Ideally I agree there would be some latch that we're slip over or lock those puppies in place... But these little piece of wood a one heckuva insurance policy and greatly reduce risk of side tables collapsing.
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I agree that the side tables are pretty good with the exception of not being able to lock them. You know I'm gonna ask you for a pic Steve! Sounds like a good fix. That would definitely make me feel a little more comfortable. On Thanksgiving my cousin walked my the smoker and smacked into the side table and knocked himself pretty good and my tongs onto the ground. He and the shelf were fine but made me nervous.
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Pics I will guarantee. Travel this week so posts may increase as stuck in hotel room... but getting anything done on my hobby won't occur.... But it's easy to jam anything in there!
I am thinking of trying an apple pie on the smoker... Dunno why just crazy thought stuck in my mind ... But once there it's trapped!!!
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Okay ... for now this is all I have ... However I will take photos this weekend to show this mod I am about to apply to my SI3!!!!
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Okay ... for now this is all I have ... However I will take photos this weekend to show this mod I am about to apply to my SI3!!!!
Looks like a "Master Arm" switch to me, Steve! Ha! Are you going nuclear?? LOL!
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Ha it will get warmer this weekend!
Well ... Instead of hard wiring the bypass I'm going to put this puppy on top next to the built in temp setting dial.
Little hesitant to leave it permanently bypassed in the back. I'd like to have the flexibility to bypass when using my Auber... And if Auber not needed say just doing salmon for an hour, to have it not bypass the SI temp gauge.
In the unarmed state, or whenever the red cover gets closed, the SI3 temp gauge will be active. It will win. In addition if let's say my wife uses the smoker or my sons do some day without the Auber.... It's not hard bypassed and someone cannot accidentally melt my toy.
The only way it's bypassed is one the red safety cover is open and two the switch is toggled.
It's a switch to go bypassed or not... With a little missile launcher cover for safety... Plus it should look serious and intimidating to friends that come over. 8)
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You're gonna have to do this sticker theme...the A-10 smoker! Saw this on another forum, and would really like to do it myself! ;D
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Dang! You beat me to it. :D I was looking for that pic too. I love it. Made me think about what sorta theme I would put on my smoker.
I like the safety toggle idea Steve. Good luck
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Sorry, Charlie! 9 years Air Force, and working with A-10s a lot, I about fell over when I saw this! Love it!! ;D
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DivotMaker:
That picture is cool!!! I cannot be certain but it looks like an SI3. Right?
The opportunity to serve in the armed forces has passed me by for whatever reason. God speed those who have served or are serving; I'll never directly feel the pride associated with having served my country.
cwshiles:
I just need to verify the electrical ratings; I think they're okay but I want to double check.
At the same time I'm going to modify the length of the power cords - then I should have no need to open up my unit again.
HOWEVER, now it is clear after seeing that photograpy once I get everything modified where I want it, and completing a couple months of smokes, my summer may end up determining a theme for my smoker to give it a personality!!!!!!!!
PS - On a side note, they guys I work with keep telling other people I have a cadilac smoker. One fellow overhearing this asked for all of the information I had, the smokin-it website, and he may well be interested in this too... time will tell.
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Thanks, Steve! Yep, that's a model 3.
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Well Steve, maybe you need a big Cadillac sticker on the front of your smoker. :o
Looks good. I am very happy with my power cord change. Having the more flexible power cord is nice and the lengths work well for my situation as well. Good luck.
I used to see that avatar with the A-10 alot when I was searching for which smoker to get. I love it.
I saw another guy with a stick burner that had a World of Warcraft theme on his smoker and several others that had their college or professional sports team. Not my thing, but its impressive the extent some of these folks go to customize the look of their smoker.
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Well... I did the deed today. No breakers tripped so all is well. Spent time to ensure it was meticulous.
The switch on top looks from the factory. When missile launcher closed the SI thermostat is inline. When "launched" I can over ride it assuming I have the Auber plugged in.
Also modified the power cord. Really I just shortened it for the exact length of my setup. Only did this because the unit was opened up for the last time i hope. :)
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Very clean. Impressive. I'm waiting for you guys to get this all dialed in before I pull the trigger.
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...oh and here is a picture of the side table mod.
I drilled a pilot through the hinge and the table. For now I have put a machine screw 6 through for times when I know I'm doing a long smoke, when there will be heavy traffic near the smoker, or lots of people. At which point I Will insert the screw.
I may make a custom S hook to slip through. That will be easier and double as a spatula hanger, etc.
Anyway... This is real nice and ensures if bumped... The shelves stay in place... And can continue to keep from and accident. I found this hard to do. The stainless steel requires patience!!!!
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Can I get a link for where to source that switch at? I see some low voltage ones like that that also are lighted. Wonder if a guy could find a 120 lighted one and mount it into the same location as the built in power light. That way you still have the visual light and a by-pass switch.
Hmm... I can see I'll be getting itching once again...
Wik
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Wik:
Drilling through the top stainless was a bear. I don't have the right equipment. A $3 drill bit ... again requires patience. Unfortunately I would have enjoyed a beer doing all this but didn't want to risk getting clumsy.
That said, I had the microswitch. However, I debated about buying a new one with the launcher cover that is lit. I know what you are saying.
You want the following...
Double pole, double throw (DPDT) center off.
15A - 125VAC rating. ( the SI draws 10A so that's plenty and likely your on a 15A house circuit breaker).
I can show you the circuit if needed. It's simple yet elegant. ;-)
I will also search some sites as I out my 2 year old to bed.
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Can I get a link for where to source that switch at? I see some low voltage ones like that that also are lighted. Wonder if a guy could find a 120 lighted one and mount it into the same location as the built in power light. That way you still have the visual light and a by-pass switch.
Hmm... I can see I'll be getting itching once again...
Wik
Wik : whenever the heater is on the SI light is on... Regardless of the bypass or microswitch. You don't need the lit missile launcher... That's only for effect but I am sure the chicks would dig it.
Steve
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Very impressive and professional looking craftsmanship. Innovation is alive and well in America! Making a great smoker better!!
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Nice job, Steve! Looks like the "master arm" switch was factory!
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Sarge:
Funny. I have family. I have work ( for family ). I have education. No hobbies except those three things. Seems simple. So today was spent going to the hardware store with 8 and 6 year old sons, buying studs, explaining ratings, RMS, lugs, bits, and so on. They lost steam. I literally wasted 12 hours on a 1 hour job( or 2 if you don't have a diamond drill bit to get through stainless). We even got distracted and had to get a magnifying glass and a sharpie - it was easier to agree so we could leave the store. They tried the work. I had to redo it. They would fill up my coffee and so on. Hopefully they turn out better than anything I could ever smoke :-)
Steve
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Steve,
I remember trips to the hardware store with my dad in the 50's, and then with my son in the late 80's. Good times both and I'm sure your two helpers learned a great deal that will surprise you some day long into the future.
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Final post on this thread for me... Signs hung at the Polish Q Headquarters ... Thanks for all the help and ideas folks. I appreciate the collaboration my forum-cue enthusiasts.
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very small thing....can you rotate your pics before uploading, otherwise Awesome stuff man!
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Looks great Steve! Very impressive. The switch looks like it was there all along.
I also like the shelf mod. That would definitely be enough to keep the shelf from sliding and dropping. I will be giving that mod a try in the near future.
I also like the garage smoker setup. That's a pretty nice way to keep the SI out of the elements.
Now stop tinkerin and get to smokin! 8)
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Yikes!!!!
I had to get itchy again. I realized a couple days later that when I was buttoning up the back of the unit I didn't tuck the wires outboard the middle layer of insulation!!!!
Minor fix really and not certain it would be an issue but I want them away from the interior and like it was from the factory. BUT I could only confirm I made this hasty error by looking at the photos I took here!!!!
I will now be happy not to see that yellow fiberglass from itchy-central.
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Is a 14-3 cord heavy enough for the auber? Or should I bump it up to a 12-3?
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I'm assuming you're changing the power cord on your Auber, if yes, and the length is less than 50 ft., it does not matter what you select as both are rated the same.
Current for Power Extension Cords (always uncoil the cord completely under oreration)
14 / 3 AWG Cable
Length Current
50' 15 A
100' 13 A
12 / 3 AWG Cable
Length Current
50' 15 A
100' 15 A
SI#2 has a 700W element. OnCurrent is ~6A.
SI#3 has a 1200W element. OnCurrent is ~10A.
You have enough headroom.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the info, Steve! That answered a couple of questions I had, too. Great having an engineer on staff! ;D
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I finished my toggle switch bypass. I LIKE IT! I would recommend this to anybody that is bypassing the controller, providing they feel up to the task.
I put mine on the back of my unit in the upper left corner as you look at the back of the unit. I positioned it "horizontally" so that if I flip it toward the stock controller, the controller is inline. If I flip it away from the controller, it is bypassed. I chose to put it on the back because I could put the back plate in a drill press and get a clean hole drilled. It's a nice clean look.
The reason I went the switch route over my previous direct bypass is because I had a bad probe on my Auber. Those that use Aubers, know that if you don't have two probes plugged into it, it won't work. I had a 15 lb brisket all ready to go and realized I had a bad probe. I had to tear apart my SI #3 to remove my bypass so that I could cook.
With the switch in place, I can start cooking with the flip of the switch, in the event of an auber failure.
I still haven't ordered my replacement probe and wanted to cook some chicken today. I was worried about rubbery skin because I like to finish my chicken at around 275 degrees and my stock controller won't get close to that. BUT with the switch, I can flip over to the bypass a few times at the end of the cook and get the temps up to crisp the skin.
So glad I went this route. I could almost accomplish some of the things I bought the Auber for with this simple switch. Sure, I would have to monitor it and flip back and forth a couple of times, but that's still easier than managing my stick burner.
Thanks for the great idea, Steve!
Oh, and while I had it tore apart, I put a 4' cold weather cord on it. Another very nice idea and addition.
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Well worth the effort, right Rick?
Got photo?
I like the sleek pro look by doing this....
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Pics attached now. And yes... both mods are well worth it.
You can see on the back that I'm not done cleaning it. That's my next project. I started cleaning the exterior of the box with steel wool. I haven't finished yet. You can kinda see how nice the top turned out. I have decals on the way but I can't share that yet. When I get it done, I will post up pictures. It's going to be a month or so. I don't have that kinda time on my hands.
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Nice install, Rick! ;D
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Jeff - This is my high end wiring diagram for the toggle switch. Call me if it doesn't make sense.
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Great diagram, Rick. That really explains the bypass switch process well. I've been considering this, so this is good timing! Thanks!
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Thanks Rick. This is great. I think even I can do it now with this diagram. Thank you for your ultra quick response to my request too. Great helpful people on this forum! I hope sometime I can be as helpful to somebody as the rest of you have been to me.
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Rick ... That is the same switch I used... Nice diagram.
That said if you ever leave the switch in the bypass mode accidentally and no Auber ... The unit will run full on and bad things may happen... So always check the position.
I bought the missile launcher cover for a couple bucks to ensure whenever you close the cover it automatically puts the switch back in the stock position. It's a small safety feature to help me from accidentally zapping the unit.
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I have a missile launcher and that was my original intent. But given I placed it on the back, it just looks a little weird. So on the back of the smoker, I like my left/right orientation. If I would have had the cajones to drill into the top, I would have gone with the missile launcher look.
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Curious why the aluminum foil is left hanging out the front?
Thanks Steve and Sarge!
That is my fully patented DripStop-o-Matic! ;D
I actually got tired of dripping juices (cooked or raw) on the deck. The dogs like it, but it stains, so I do not. It does not catch them all, but if I pull the racks out a little to check the cook, it is enough that it catches some of the drippings. I usually flip up the end a little to get it to extend out a little more. I have also been taking a little outdoor table and sitting it in front of the smoker and placing a disposable full size hotel pan under the racks when I am done so I have a work table.
I have not figured out exactly how I will do it yet, but I plan to put in a sliding shelf under the front of the smoker that will extend out like a drawer would. This create a place for me to work as well as catch those pesky drippings. I like the side tables on the cart, but I would prefer one right in front under the drip pan attached to the smoker so I could extend it out and slide it back underneath when not in use. I there is not really a place to attach drawer slides to the side of the cart without attaching another piece of material to the stainless steel sides of the cart.
I really like the stainless steel cart from Smokin-it, but the sides tables are not terribly sturdy. I am always afraid I am going to knock into it and collapse a side table by accident.
Ill see what I can come up with over the next couple weeks. Idea's and suggestions welcome.
You could lay full extension slides on their side and screw them to each of the crossmembers on front and back of cart, then mount a simple pan to the slides. This could be bent and riveted or you could weld the corners. Then line with foil or drop a disposable hotel pan and viola!
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Welcome onelbil. Your suggestion sounds feasible, but in my opinion, a little bit of overkill. I didn't comment on the foil out the front method before, but since you mentioned it again, I just have to throw my nickels-worth in.
If you properly foil the bottom of the smoker, remember to poke a hole in the foil over the air/drain hole, and have your catch pan in place, you will rarely get liquid coming out the front. If you do, there is a catch pan just below the door, with its own drain hole that feeds into the catch pan. If you get a lot of liquid out the door seal, it's likely the bottom wasn't foiled properly, or a hole wasn't poked in the foil. I've done many smokes in these, and have never had juices drip off the front ledge.
If you have a Smokin-It smoker, go on over to the Introductions section and tell us about yourself! Heck, go there even if you don't have one! We like to get to know our new friends! ;D
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Hi all
I want to bypass the temp from my si3 with an auber unit. Are the two female disconnects from the thermostat at the top of the box?
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Near the top....
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Thanks polishq. I gave it a try and seemed to work fine. Had it at 275 for an hour or so to test it. Thanks for the info!
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Okay ... for now this is all I have ... However I will take photos this weekend to show this mod I am about to apply to my SI3!!!!
Polish Q, I like what you did with the bypass, great job. I am thinking of doing the same. Is this the toggle needed?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/sts-60/dpdt-c-off-heavy-duty-toggle-switch/1.html
Ernie
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Pretty much... I don't have on off on.... I have what I think is dpst meaning position a or position b.
This will work though.
Oh and the Auber probe on other post is the right one.
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Thanks bud...just waiting on some parts.
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Polish Q
In your opinion is it ok to use a rated extension cord for the auber?
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RickNE
I will be bypassing the stock controller and really like the bypass. i think might be something I can do.
DM
Ricks diagram and the one you posted are perfect.
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Ed:
Yes. No issue provided it's not an obvious error like using an indoor cord for Christmas lights or something ridiculous.
Also assuming the length will be something normal like 30 feet or less.
Steve
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Yesterday I installed the bypass toggle switch, I had to go with an ON OFF ON switch Menards didn't have the rocket launcher but this one works great. It was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be, even drilling the half inch hole wasn't bad, started with a smaller bit and worked my up using a little oil and it went pretty quick. If you've been thinking about doing this jump right in the instructions on page 4 and 5 are really great, the whole process is maybe a couple hrs. and the cost is under 10 bucks thats with buying all the connections if you have those on hand it would be under $4. If you have done the bypass and installed a permanent probe for the Auber it's no more difficult than that, can't wait to try it out this weekend on a couple of chickens now crispy skin is just a click away how cool is that! Just made the best smoker on the planet even better !!
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Great feedback, Jim! Let us know how it works out for you!
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Totally agree it's worth it. I recall the drilling to require some elbow grease.... But after that it's been nothing but clear sailing!
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Your pictures on page 4 Polish Q were the key to this install, set my lap top up in the garage and nothing to it, actually I redid it yesterday and went with an ON ON switch instead of the ON OFF ON I had originally installed, now flip the switch towards the dial and I'm on the stock controller to the right and I'm bypassed, no reason for the OFF or middle position since I'll either be using it bypassed or stock, redoing it allowed me to clean up the job a bit more so now it looks like a factory upgrade!!
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Pictures, Jim? ;)
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When getting the rocket launcher switch cover, which switch is best to use? The DPDT or the DPST since there is no need for the off position. I am woefully inadequate with electrical tinkering. However, if I can get the right parts i am sure I can do the mods with your detailed notes. Is the DPST the on / on switch & will the launch cover work with it?
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Yes. Walt go to any local hardware store... Talk to anyone in the store they will know what you need.
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I just wanted to pass this along to anyone looking for the rocket covers:
Here is the full DPST switch:
http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Toggle-Switch-DPST-Amp/dp/B006IC0194/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420904983&sr=1-2&keywords=Safety+Toggle+Switch+DPST (http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Toggle-Switch-DPST-Amp/dp/B006IC0194/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420904983&sr=1-2&keywords=Safety+Toggle+Switch+DPST)
Here is the rocket cover itself which you can place over any of the DPST/DPDT switches:
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Switch-Cover-Red/dp/B001TJAWDG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XC1JYGDDEV75H7KXYEA (http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Switch-Cover-Red/dp/B001TJAWDG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XC1JYGDDEV75H7KXYEA)
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Nice links for the switches! Thanks!
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Previously i provided links for the rocket cover and a DPST switch - on/off. I wanted to add a note for others out there to help prevent you from running into what i did. ;D
I did the bypass that CUTiger80 posted and i used a DPDT switch on / off / on. I wanted to call out make sure you do not purchase a switch that say momentary on like this: DPDT Center Off Momentary On One Side. The momentary means one of the on sides doesnt say in place it will fall back to off. Basically you would need to hold it in place yourself to keep the unit on. I didnt realize that when i purchased it. Just make sure you get a DPDT Center Off and that it doesnt say anything about momentary.
Also note that the rocket switch doesnt play well with the DPDT switches. It will fit over the switch, but when you close cover will move the toggle from an off position to off i believe. If you leave the cover up the switch will work fine. You might be able to dremmel out the inside of the switch to make it not do this though. Just wanted to call it out to anyone wanting the on - off - on which give you the ability to use the build int controller vs auber.
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I used a DPDT on / on & the rocket launcher works fine. No need for the off position. Either the pid is on or the analog controller is on.
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Exactly!
It's one of life's simpler pleasures.
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This is a question to those that have done the switched bypass. Does anyone remember for sure what size the wire is for the job? I am assuming it is 12 like the power cord, but just want to make sure before I get the supplies.
Chuck
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I'm doing a bypass soon as well. I would like to know the gauge and if everyone is using temperature insulated wiring or regular stuff since the smoker isn't really going beyond 250 much?
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The controller wires are closer to 16 than 12. So, 14 would be more than sufficient.
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Thanks Dave. I was planning on using 14, just wanted to be sure. Going back and looking, I seen it was 14 and not 12 for the power cable coming in. Thanks again for the reply.
Chuck
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If I recall, the line from the power light must be cut and an extension must be spliced in. That was a 16 AWG wire. Everything else was 14.
Look on page 3 of "How to bypass an analog controller". I generated a parts list needed ensuring only one trip to the hardware store. Good luck.
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Jeff - This is my high end wiring diagram for the toggle switch. Call me if it doesn't make sense.
Hi Rickne,
Your diagram is for a DTDP switch. I am no electonic expert so I need help figuring out how to wire this for a DTSP switch like some others are talking about. Would you have time to help explain how to wire it for a DTSP switch? I think those only have 4 prongs on the back instead of 6 prongs like in your diagram, right?
thanks,
paidin
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I am worried about weatherproofing the smoker. Would waterproof switches such as these work?
http://www.amazon.com/Bandc-Rocker-Switch-Light-Waterproof/dp/B00EBR1H1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424221310&sr=8-1&keywords=led+Switch+DPST+waterproof
http://www.amazon.com/54-210W--None-Off-Lighted-Rocker-Waterproof/dp/B008DGO2IY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1424221940&sr=8-3&keywords=led+Switch+DPST+waterproof
also, does it matter that these are rated as DC instead of AC?
thanks,
paidin
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another question for you guys. I noticed that the DPDT or the DPST toggle switch is to change it from the stock layout where the thermometer is used or a shorted situation where the two white leads are connected directly to each other. Can't the same thing be achieved by tapping into both leads and connecting a simple on/off switch that can short the two white leads when the switch is on and return it back to normal when the switch is turned off? This will allow us to use any old weatherproof switch including this neat switch here: http://www.amazon.com/Illuminated-Automotive-Toggle-Switch-Button/dp/B0060U92FS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07QDRX8CSFA2EHZN8Q7K
Well, that switch is not weatherproof but it has a neat led built in.
So I figure that if you short the two white wires while they are still attached to the temperature dial, it should still work fine and still allow the machine to revert back to factory settings when the switch is turned off.
what do you guys think?
paidin
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I ordered the following switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIDYQMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIDYQMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)). It took a while (shipped from hong kong) but it was cheap, waterproof, and AC rated. I don't think you want to use the DC rated switches you were linking to. I haven't installed my setup yet so I can't comment on how well I like this switch. But I have received it (took about 3-4 weeks shipping).
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Hi guys,
after discussing this with the electricians at my work, we decided the most efficient way to do this is with a 3 way switch or a SPDT (single pole double throw switch). I have added two illustrations, since I have never opened the SI#4, I am only using my imagination as far as how it is wired. Please, if you have time, double check these to see if they make sense. One picture shows it with the switch going to bypass the thermostat and the other picture shows the switch to set the circuit back to the original factory settings using the thermostat.
Thanks for looking
paidin
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I'm planning on ordering a auber this Friday. I'm also getting the perminent temp probe. HFigured if I had back off for probe install, just as well wire in a bypass. I set up a dpdt toggle 15 amp switch. See pic. I believe this should
provide a choice to go beyond normal temp limits. I'm not planning on anything over 300 degrees. Then mostly for only finishing off smoked baked potatoes. I love them. Main reason I want auber is I'm always on the go and not able to watch the I.T. The auber will keep from over cooking the meat, And (http://)give me better temp control for lower temp foods like jerky.
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Hey, Bigjo, you're on the right track. I have taken my bypassed smokers up to 325, with no issues. To me, the real reason, for the bypass, is to take the stock controller "bottleneck" out of the process. With the bypass, the Auber directly controls the element, as it should be. The "middleman" controller can cause issues, so I like it cut out of the equation.
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I agree.
If I am smoking low say 225F ... I leave the switch in the position so the stock controller is in line. Then I set the stock controller to 250 and my auber at 225. In this way the stock controller acts like a "safety" should the auber go haywire.
Only time need bypass is when pushing auber smokes near 250 or above.
With the newly offered built in PID which looks sweet... In time this thread will need sunset But it may take some time. :) ;D :D
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Hi guys I've been trying to get my supplies together to do the perm probe & switch bypass together. I have read both bypass threads & still in the dark a little. I purchased a DPST 20 amp toggle switch (on/on) 4 leads on the back because a member stated thats what he was running. The diagram in the thread though shows for a DPDT (on/off/on) switch but there is no need for the off position I read so can someone help this newb out? What switch do I need? I just want the switch on (analog controller) or on (digital controller) back or forth preferably-no need for the center position. I pretty much understand the rest if I can get out the weeds with this switch. Thanks in advance!
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Hi guys I've been trying to get my supplies together to do the perm probe & switch bypass together. I have read both bypass threads & still in the dark a little. I purchased a DPST 20 amp toggle switch (on/on) 4 leads on the back because a member stated thats what he was running. The diagram in the thread though shows for a DPDT (on/off/on) switch but there is no need for the off position I read so can someone help this newb out? What switch do I need? I just want the switch on (analog controller) or on (digital controller) back or forth preferably-no need for the center position. I pretty much understand the rest if I can get out the weeds with this switch. Thanks in advance!
You need a DPDT switch (on/on). I used this one when I did my smoker mods for my heatermeter project:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIDYQMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1ND5AJNAM8UHH
Here's some threads on the DPDT wiring:
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=2940
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=2611
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=1863.msg17742#msg17742
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With the recent problems I had with my Auber, I decided to go from full time bypass to the switched bypass. There was some trial and error involved but overall, not too difficult. I haven't tried it with the Auber yet but smoking my Super Bowl wings right now with the switch to the analog controller side. I'll probably test the Auber side next weekend to see if I need to re-run my auto tune after getting the unit back from Auber repair. I chose the side of the smoker that I did so that I didn't have to extend the power light wire.
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi40.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe204%2Fdave_rce1%2Fbypass-switch_zpsfdfbz2fr.jpg&hash=56fbb9cc3df94ca7bfddd0ff565c80f8c32bc8d6)
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I too like you am a fan of the bypass. Twice I had Auber or probe issues. It's comforting to know when this happened not all was lost. Flip to analog... Start the smoke... No plans ruined... And simply fix it after the party!!!
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This is my first post to the forum. Just got my model 1 as a Christmas present. I have a chemical processing background so using the Auber was a must for me and my OCD tendencies. After reading several posts I decided to install the bypass switch on top of my model 1 with the rocket launcher cover. It just looks cooler that way. After wiring it up I plugged the model 1 directly into the wall without using the auber to make sure I wired it properly. Here is how it is behaving:
1. Switch and cover in down position. This should operate as the unit comes from the factory. In this setting the red light is always on even if I have the stock controller in off.
2. Cover up and Switch engaged. This should be bypass with the auber in control. In this setting the red light goes on and off as I switch the stock controller from off to on.
I think this is backwards of how it should be operating. I think I have the jumper and the connections to the stock controller on the wrong side of my switch. If this is the case it is an easy fix, but wanted to check before I open the back up again.
Thanks for your help.
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Luke, at the end of the day I think that this is a matter of personal preference. Most of us have it wired so that if the rocket cover is in the down position then the stock controller is in control and in order to bypass the controller you have to lift the rocket cover and throw the switch. I have mine set up this way and have also positioned the toggle switch so that if it points towards the controller then the controller is in charge and you have to toggle it away from the controller to bypass the controller. The idea behind all this is that if someone not familiar with the equipment should plug it in then there is, hopefully, an extra level of protection against them plugging in a bypassed unit without an Auber in the circuit.
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Had this completed now for a couple months, but haven't gotten my pictures posted. I originally had my connections on the bypass switch backwards so I had to open it up again, but I think I'm good now. Love the lack of temperature swings with the Auber! Doing my first pork butt this weekend for the 4th.
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Great you got it figured-out, Luke!
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If one were to install a more suitable cord for winter / outdoor use as posted , what gauge / type cord would you suggest for a replacement?
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If one were to install a more suitable cord for winter / outdoor use as posted , what gauge / type cord would you suggest for a replacement?
I bought low-temp 12/3 cords from Lowe's. They're yellow, but I can't remember the brand. I think they're rated to like -20°, or some crazy temp. At any rate, they're not too expensive (for a 25'), and stay flexible in the cold.
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If one were to install a more suitable cord for winter / outdoor use as posted , what gauge / type cord would you suggest for a replacement?
I bought low-temp 12/3 cords from Lowe's. They're yellow, but I can't remember the brand. I think they're rated to like -20°, or some crazy temp. At any rate, they're not too expensive (for a 25'), and stay flexible in the cold.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
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I have an old school 4. I did a bypass with a rocker switch to have the original controller as a back up but use the Auber 99% of the time. I used it for a year with no problems and then had the heating element crack during a smoke. After that, all kinds of weird things happened. The auber got shorted a couple of times and I sent it in twice for a repair. The auber company was efficient and extremely helpful. I've been using the attached wiring diagram by CUTiger80. I have had to "re-wire" The unit about 9 times. The wire from the power cord to the heating element on the right (as you look at the cabinet from the back) is also tied to the indicator light is the one that frequently burns out/melts. I am going to try a new element. The wire to element connection on the right has melted to the connectors I have used in the past. I talked to Steve and he said my problem is probably not using high temperature wire in the right place and not using high temperature connectors. My questions for the august group are:
1) Can someone provide me with a diagram that shows exactly where the high temperature wire and connector goes? Also what is the orientation of wires connecting to the heating element? Does it matter if the power supply connects to the right or left from the back?
2) I may just skip the rocker/selector switch. I always use the Auber. Does someone have a good diagram for that?
Thank you, gentlemen! I hope you all have a blessed and Happy New Year!
Tommy in Spartanburg, SC
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Tommy - Have you checked out these postings? Some good illustrative photos that may or may not help. Here's hoping!
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=2940
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Tommy,
Before I modified my #1, I drew the wiring diagram and saved it to my PC for future reference.
This should help you.
Dave
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Dave, thanks for sharing.