Author Topic: How to Bypass the Analog Controller  (Read 72110 times)

Three Sons BBQ

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #30 on: December 18, 2014, 07:14:55 PM »
275 for me... But that's all I felt comfortable with when I was feeling the bottom.
Brinkmann '07... Offset '11... Smokin-It '13!!!

CUTiger80

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #31 on: December 23, 2014, 12:25:51 PM »
I installed the permanent probe and the controller bypass this past weekend.  I included my process and some photos on the probe installation under the appropriate category "How to install a permanent Auber temperature probe".  Below is information on bypassing the controller.
I chose to install a switch so that I could go back to the stock analog controller should I have an issue with the Auber or one of its probes.
First, I purchased a common DPDT panel mount 2-position toggle switch with screw terminals, rated for 15A, from Amazon.  Below is the link to the switch that I bought.  I like the screw terminals because it allowed me to use crimp-on terminals on the various wires so that I could easily remove them later if needed.  Also, as you can see in the photo below, I found that by removing the screws in the center terminals, the spade terminal that came on the smoker would slip on the switch terminal without having to re-terminate it.  Be sure and check the switch terminals (I did this with a common volt-ohm meter) before installing the wiring to make sure which terminals are "closed" and which are "open" when the switch is thrown in each position.  On the switch I bought, I found that when the switch was thrown in one direction, the terminals on the opposite end of the switch were the ones that were actually "closed".  (As you can see from the wiring diagram below, the terminals in the center of the switch connect to the heating element of the smoker.  When the switch is thrown one way, the heating element is connected to the stock SI controller.  When the switch is thrown the other way, the heating element is connected to the jumper and is controlled by the Auber.)

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K858QG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like others have posted, I decided to mount the switch in the top of the smoker near the right rear corner at the right edge of the label.  I like the location now (sorry I didn't take a picture), but drilling in that location was a bear.  The sheet metal and label together are every bit of 1/8" thick or more.  The diameter of the switch is 1/2", so I drilled a small pilot hole, then a little larger hole and then finally the 1/2" hole.  Let the drill turn slowly and be patient because the stainless is very hard.  I used cutting oil to help cool the bits.  Regular motor oil will work almost as well.
I made up all of the jumpers and terminated all of the wiring before installing the switch so that it would be easier to access the terminal screws on the switch.  Make sure that you use 14 AWG wire or larger for all conductors.  I used stranded wire since it is easier to work with.  I found that I had to lengthen the wire that goes to the power indicator light due to my switch location (this wire does not need to be 14 AWG).  I then installed the switch with the threaded lock nut provided (see photo).  I installed my switch so that when thrown to the left (looking at the top of the smoker from the front) the standard SI controller was connected and when thrown to the right, the Auber was in control.  I have made up some labels and once I have installed them, I will take a photo and update this post.
I drew up a crude wiring diagram and taped it to the inside of the back panel of the smoker (see photo) so that it would be handy should I have to work on something in the middle of a smoke (which I did on my first smoke, as detailed below).
Before re-installing the back of the smoker, I tested it with and without the Auber to make sure that my wiring was correct.

During my first smoke, I found that the heating element would turn off about 45 minutes into the smoke.  After much stress, I found that I could wiggle the power cord and the element would come back on (as evidenced by the light on the top of the smoker).  About 45 minutes later, the element would stop working again.  Each time this happened, I could wiggle the cord and get it to come back on.  Finally, I decided to take the back off the smoker and troubleshoot the problem.  As it turned out, the crimp-on connector on the heating element conductor that connects to a spade connector on the power cord (the one that comes from the factory encased in shrink tube) was loose.  I cut off the shrink tube from both power conductors and re-terminated all of the conductors with new crimp-on connectors and wrapped well with electrical tape.  The rest of the smoke was flawless.
The moral of the story is that if you are doing the mod above and have the back of the smoker off, go ahead and cut off that factory installed shrink tube and re-terminate the conductors and then reinstall more shrink tube.  It may save you some headaches down the road.
P.S. - You can buy a fairly inexpensive terminal crimp kit from Lowes or other stores that comes with a selection of crimp-on terminals and the stripper/crimper.  This is a handy thing to have around the house because a lot of appliances, etc. use them.  Below is a link to one that I found on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Solderless-Connection-Stripping/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1419354945&sr=1-1&keywords=terminal+crimp+kit
« Last Edit: January 13, 2015, 02:01:52 PM by CUTiger80 »
Ravel
BSEE 1980 Clemson University
“Don't let your happiness depend on something that you may lose.” C.S. Lewis

DivotMaker

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #32 on: December 23, 2014, 07:19:35 PM »
Another fine job, Ravel!  I'm sure many will appreciate the switch wiring diagram.
Tony from NW Arkansas
"Official Smokin-It Test Pilot"
Smokin-It Model 1, 2D conversion, and 3D
Auber PID, NexGrill 896 6-burner, CharBroil Big Easy, Anova Precision Cooker w/WiFi
Wife, Son and One REALLY Big Dog!

Three Sons BBQ

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #33 on: December 23, 2014, 08:32:19 PM »
... And yet we have another master engineer!!!

I love it.
Brinkmann '07... Offset '11... Smokin-It '13!!!

Walt

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #34 on: December 31, 2014, 04:58:14 PM »
Just finished.  Ravel, Polish, WIK & Divot, thanks for the info.  It is a simple fix once all the parts are gathered.  The only thing I can add would be a parts list......

1     1/2" titanium drill bit (used for the toggle switch hole)

1     DPDT, 6 prong, on / on, 15A or 20A, toggle switch (link in CUTiger post above)

1     Missile Switch Cover (I ordered it from Electronics123.com item# COM09278)

2     1' long 14awg jumpers (connect from middle of toggle to the temperature dial)

1     6" long 14awg jumper (for one end of the toggle switch, this is the bypass)

1     1' long 16awg jumper (the wire coming from the light indicator must be cut in half &
        this extends it so it can reach the location of the toggle switch)

Spade connectors can be used for everything (except the 16awg extension) even on the toggle as long as the shoulders at the tip of the spade are removed. 
« Last Edit: December 31, 2014, 05:01:13 PM by Walt »
Walt from South East Louisiana
Model#2 Bypassed with
Auber PID WSD 1200 GPH
Weber EP-330 LP grill

DivotMaker

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #35 on: December 31, 2014, 08:43:54 PM »
Great list, Walt.  Thank you!
Tony from NW Arkansas
"Official Smokin-It Test Pilot"
Smokin-It Model 1, 2D conversion, and 3D
Auber PID, NexGrill 896 6-burner, CharBroil Big Easy, Anova Precision Cooker w/WiFi
Wife, Son and One REALLY Big Dog!

CUTiger80

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #36 on: January 13, 2015, 02:03:08 PM »
I finally got around to posting pictures of the labels that I applied to the by-pass switch on the SI#2 and to the back and top of my Auber.
Ravel
BSEE 1980 Clemson University
“Don't let your happiness depend on something that you may lose.” C.S. Lewis

tall paul

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #37 on: January 18, 2015, 10:36:33 PM »
Has anyone tried using 135 degree drill bit for drilling the stainless steel? If so, did it seem to work any better?
Model #2
Paul from OKC

Three Sons BBQ

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #38 on: January 19, 2015, 07:21:54 AM »
CUTiger80 ... I had a cousin who graduated in 88 but passed way to young from an accident. Always pull for the Tigers. 😉

Brinkmann '07... Offset '11... Smokin-It '13!!!

tall paul

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #39 on: January 19, 2015, 10:53:30 AM »
Thought I'd share an observation. I'm going to do the analog controller bypass and have been reading all the posts about this topic.  I noticed in the photos that CUTiger80 posted that it appears that the spade connectors and wiring that were on the stock controller are high temperature wire and connectors. THHN wire is spec at 194 F. Might be a good idea to go to the local appliance parts supply store or somewhere similar and get a couple feet of high temp wire and 4 high temp connectors
Model #2
Paul from OKC

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #40 on: January 19, 2015, 07:57:17 PM »
Thanks for the tip, Paul.  That would probably be the safest way to do it, for sure.  But, the power cord coming into the smoker is not hi-temp wire, and there are a couple of layers of thick insulation between the wiring and box.  I've done 2 smokers with standard Romex 12 ga. solid house wire, and haven't had any issues. The wiring stays pretty cool.
Tony from NW Arkansas
"Official Smokin-It Test Pilot"
Smokin-It Model 1, 2D conversion, and 3D
Auber PID, NexGrill 896 6-burner, CharBroil Big Easy, Anova Precision Cooker w/WiFi
Wife, Son and One REALLY Big Dog!

CUTiger80

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #41 on: January 20, 2015, 10:02:13 AM »
Paul, I agree with Tony.
There is quite a mixture of wire/connector types in the stock unit.  I believe that the high-temp wire/connectors is what comes from the manufacturer on the heating element.  I left the back off and turned up the heat and then felt the wire, etc. and it was all relatively cool.  Really, the only place it gets slightly hot is in the center of the back down at the bottom where the heating element is located.
Good luck with your mod!!  Mine works great!!  Now I just need to overcome my "VCR programming syndrome" (you know, back when you thought you had your VCR programmed to record a particular show only to find out when you went to watch it you had actually set it for something else) with my Auber.  I had cooked some butts when I first got the Auber and saved the program under "P1".  Later I cooked some ribs and re-programmed the Auber.  This past weekend I cooked some more butts for a group.  I thought that I recalled program (or the Auber folks call it a recipe) "P1" only to wake up at 5:30 AM to find the smoker off, 6 hours into the smoke.  Turns out, the Auber was still set to my rib recipe.  I'm not sure that I am going to try and save and recall programs any more.  It is so easy to just punch it in for each smoke.
Ravel
BSEE 1980 Clemson University
“Don't let your happiness depend on something that you may lose.” C.S. Lewis

tall paul

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #42 on: January 20, 2015, 11:11:18 AM »
Ravel / Tony,
Thanks for sharing that info.
Ravel, I'm somewhat apprehensive myself about programming and using the Auber. But there appears to be plenty of helpful info here.
I haven't seen any comprehensive posts on "ramp up" times / temperatures, cooking temps, finishing temps / times and recommended holding times / temps for use with the Aubers. Do either of you know of any? Have seen bits of info on these. 
Model #2
Paul from OKC

CUTiger80

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #43 on: January 20, 2015, 11:31:22 AM »
Paul,
I got my Auber in early December and have only used it for 4-5 smokes.  It is fairly easy to program, but I would suggest writing everything down first.  All of my "recipes" so far have only 3 steps.  I have done a smoked salmon recipe before my Auber which would require 4 steps.
I have an SI#2 and I have a bunch of the cheap Weber wood chunks and I have found that I get the infamous "belch" if I don't ramp up the temp on all of my smokes (that is always my first step in the program).  There are many on here that will tell you that it is not necessary, but I think you have to figure some things out for yourself and go with what you are the most comfortable with.  (I also foil boat my wood chunks to try and reduce the risk of belch and extend the smoke, but many on here will tell you that is unnecessary as well.)
I am not sure how many regular contributors to this board are Auber users, but I suspect that it is only a few, so most smoking recipes are not specific to the Auber user.
I will say that for me, there is no difference in how you smoke with and without the Auber, it is just that you can program your steps into the Auber and let it do it's thing rather than you having to tend to it or watch it as carefully.
Just keep smoking and asking questions.  The folks on this forum are awesome and patient and seem to really like coaching us newbies along.
Ravel
BSEE 1980 Clemson University
“Don't let your happiness depend on something that you may lose.” C.S. Lewis

NDKoze

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Re: How to Bypass the Analog Controller
« Reply #44 on: January 20, 2015, 12:21:21 PM »
I will say that for me, there is no difference in how you smoke with and without the Auber, it is just that you can program your steps into the Auber and let it do it's thing rather than you having to tend to it or watch it as carefully.

I think this is a very key point. The Auber basically automates a lot of the things that require non-Auber users to monitor and then make manual adjustments.

I think there are a fair amount of Auber users, with more and more getting on board as we move along here. I think a big thing is that once they are setup and auto-tuned, they are pretty easy to use and don't prompt a lot of questions.

I am finally tentatively planning on taking the plunge this spring when it will be nicer outside to do the bypass and permanent probe install. I have resisted the urge thus far, because there were other accessories that I wanted first. But, the Auber is pretty much all I have left to get.

Regarding the belch, "usually" only one of the two methods (Ramp or Foil) is needed. But, if you have really dry wood, you may have to use a combination of both. The one downfall of foiling is that it doesn't work as well for low temperature smokes.
Gregg - Fargo, ND
Smokin-It #3 (purchased in 2014) that replaced a Masterbuilt XL (ugh) and a 10+ Year-Old Big Chief (still used for fish), and few others over the years, along with variety of Weber Gas/Charcoal Grills, Anova Sous Vide, etc. devices.